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If you have some the DIY skills to build the projects on this site you can make a manual version of this by bringing together the pneumatic components from a good quality penis pump inc safety valve and a well made Vinyl dildo or vibe.

There are also thermo-expansive plastics or more expensively poly-mimetic alloys. I saw in a note up higher that you were including a bluetooth connection.

Might I humbly suggest you consider using a wifi G connection instead? There are a few reasons.. The most important of which, in terms of a business idea, being that you can get to market faster and only have to write the code to get at it once.

In the device itself in the form of web pages that it can serve up. If you use bluetooth, you then need to work the application side, and when you do that, you will only get the device for which you write the application side for, android, ios, what have you.

Thanks again! SO using a web server does not preclude you from eventually having those custom apps as well. Do you mind sharing exactly which force sensors The Hammer uses?

I really like this project. The video I posted turned out to be about the last time that sensor worked. This is rather ingenius!

Totally envious! If there is a way for me to get one of these I very much would do so! Perhaps a belt or strapon harness with a pocket or something to house the circuit board would be needed.

Or ultimately somehow be able to miniaturize it so everything could fit inside the dildo, leaving waterproof controls on the underside or something.

Thanks so much for your commment! Yeah, casting can be tricky business! Thank you for the links. It seemed like on you Dr.

Who Tardis dildo, the silicone had a lot of air bubbles in it. Is this a reoccurring. Can anything be done to prevent this when pouring tue silicone?

This is a common problem in casting and moldmaking. When you mix your components together, you introduce air bubbles.

What you need is a way to vacuum degas the silicone before you pour it into the mold. Usually this is done with some kind of vacuum rig consisting of a vacuum pump connected to a vacuum chamber.

Do you just let the silicone completely cure inside the vacuum chamber then? Is this true? It may be somewhat complicated, but not that complicated.

This video from Smooth-On shows the process: First you measure and mix the silicone, then you put it in the degassing chamber, then you turn on the vacuum pump.

Once the degassing is complete, you remove the silicone and then pour it into your mold. You might be thinking of pressure casting. You might need to contact your latex manufacturer to see what they would recommend for working with their latex and silicone.

Hopefully now you have a number of links to follow and some useful terms to Google. Good luck with your project! Your invention is amazing!

What material are your molds made from? Any suggestions would be a lifesaver! Thank you. So, because I had copious amounts of it, my molds are also made of Dragon Skin.

Ah, yes. Latex is a no-go because it contains sulphur, which inhibits curing. I found a couple of pages that have more detailed information on what inhibits curing of platinum cure silicones: this page from Renew Materials and this page from TAP Plastics.

Apparently, that leaves you with a two-part mold that has a much smaller seams. You might be able to use these as a starting point for further searching.

The folks at Smooth-On are actually pretty sex-positive and very helpful, so you could actually call them, explain your problem, and see if they have any suggestions.

I hope this is helpful. Hey thanks for all your help! Thanks again. Did you use any mold release or petroleum jelly on the plaster before you poured your silicone?

I have looked into pigments and would like to try them eventualy. Casting voids at least in jewelery making is one of the hardest things but if you do go for a cored design either in plastic or by using a dual density pour of silicone you avoid some of the problems in exchange for having to design a mold that holds your core in the correct position you could also use an off the shelf pressure bulb inside the insert-able in the same way.

When I first got into toys one of my favorite toys was a dildo made was a soft transparent silicon like material sleeve that was pushed onto a chemical light-stick it was really cool the light-stick was more bendable than flexible but overall fell was very plush but still up to vigorous thrusting I used it for years until I ran out of the special shaped light-sticks.

Perhaps for your standard non-insertable dildo version this format would work either producing both parts or just cores that fit any suitable sleeve.

Yep Accelerometer controlled light-saber duels would rock. Good luck getting the hammer out there May the Swartz be with you!

Thanks very much! Yeah, Dr. The sleeve idea is also a good one. Thanks again for taking the time to write! I hope to do a new version of the Hammer someday.

Forgive this un solicited missive. I was reading your blog earlier and specifically your entry on the hammer. The first is the over all shape of the device.

The human penis rather like the clitoris has a root beneath the surface. As your earlier experiments with the feeldoe demonstrated fixing a dildo at the vagina only can lead to a lot of shifting around and slippage under vigorous motion.

I suggest anchoring the hammer both in the vagina and anus. As every geometer knows a line through two points can only aline one way.

This does bring disadvantages. The distance between the anus and vagina is quite variable so different sizes are needed and of course not all female bodied people are fond of anal penetration.

However the additional space would be handy for mounting extra batteries. The vaginal bulb could be made more secure by allowing it to inflate.

A simple valve might enable air pockets in the silicon bulb to be pumped up by the user. Inflatable dildos are well established and while the extra snugness might be uncomfortable for some others might relish the extra sensation of fullness.

An additional benefit is that force on the bulb can be measured with an air pressure sensor which I expect would be more resistant to wear and tare.

Of course you must be aware of the recent interest in pneumatic 3d printed robotics where soft rubbery plastics are printed with pneumatic air cavities that induce shape change when inflated.

By connecting pneumatic cavities in the vaginal and anal bulbs to cavities in the shaft small motions of the shaft could be induced by vaginal and anal clenching.

Lastly it has not escaped my attention that these modifications make the device unusable for those with out vaginas. Both these configurations could employ an anal bulb for added stability and biofeedback from the wearer.

In any respect I hope these observations are of use to you and I will continue to follow your work with interest. Addendum: originally sent as an email dr stubs has suggested I repost this here for those who might make use of the ideas.

Thank you again for your thoughtful comments! My toymaking time these days is pretty limited, but perhaps one of our other intrepid readers will be inspired by these ideas.

Sorry about that! Thanks for writing, and best of luck with your video. You could also potentially make one yourself by taking a glass dildo or a translucent dildo and attaching a small flashlight to the bottom — I recently met someone who did that for a Halloween costume.

Thanks for that, I may need to lightly beat people with it unfortunately so it might not be the best. Thanks again for taking the time to write.

Cheers and all the best! The glass dildo there uses a colour changing led and mini battery exactly the same as in a led T-light. The same T-light module could easily be used with a clone a willy kit or the instructions further up the page in the same way as the Tardis dildo.

Or you could pull the fiber optic bundle and led assembly from a mini tabletop xmass tree and have sparkles all up the shaft. I might just want to wait until the patent expires in Thanks for your interest!

I searched all over for the wiring diagram, and I have no idea what happened to it. I basically just followed Arduino tutorials for how to hook up the NeoPixels, sensors, etc.

The machine is fantastic! Best, Kit. Hi Catherine, my apologies for the delayed reply! Not yet — most of my time has been spent getting the Effing Foundation up and running.

I love your project. Have a look the ESP Hi Pedro, apologies for the delayed reply! Thanks for the pointer!

Curious if this project was ever picked back up? This was quite an amazing feat considering how many years ago it was. Thanks for writing!

I do hope to get back to it someday! Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

Notify me of follow-up comments by email. Notify me of new posts by email. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Skip to primary content. Skip to secondary content. Home About Buzz Policies. The rainbow lights are indeed quite lovely!

Well done! I hope the Arse Electronica attendees were suitably impressed. Metis Black Tantus Inc. President and Founder.

Since when are improvements on patented designs not patentable? Hello Ms. Black, I have a lot of respect for your company and I enjoy quite a few of your products.

Respectfully, Andrew B. Hello M. Black, Kirsten and Andrew B. Oh… I should just toss my PhD away and start working for them!!

Good show on the toy making! Rock on. Think 3D printing…. In any case, most of those Feeldoe patents are already expired. Needs an option to ring a big bell when the light reaches all the way to the tip.

I need one of these…..

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